a big one

photo by mw

i have been back from my most recent trip for more than three weeks now. after summer work in norway dried up, instead of flying west across the atlantic towards home, i made my way east into asia to a small country famous for big mountains and big rivers.
i have been wanting to share all my photos and stories with you blog fans out there but am just now taking the time to blog it all out.

before i get into the trip itself, i want to extend my deepest gratitude to miss elizabeth duncan. all of you blog fans are well acquainted with this photogenic, young woman who has contributed generously to para la familia both in front of and behind the camera.

photo by steve coffman
liza unselfishly put aside her own plans and desires and offered me tremendous support before and after my trip. thank you so much liza.

now let us take a trip to a far away place:

photo by mw

nepal

my journey begins in the country's largest city, kathmandu:

photo by mw
just the name, kathmandu, makes me think of adjectives like mystical, mysterious, and exotic.

photo by mw
after visiting, i remember: dirty, busy, and jaw-dropping. the hustle and bustle of the city, it's constant noise, the touristy quarters full of white faces, the english language, ultra discounted shops with every thing from outdoor equipment to the latest movies on dvd, and any type of western food imaginable all felt like the transit lounge with the real nepal ready and waiting outside the valley to be breathed in.

the transit lounge does have some perks, however, like garden cafes:

photo by maxi kneiwasser

my first peak at a himalayan river, the real reason behind my travels here:

photo by mw
early season sun kosi at a high flow

my first three and a half weeks were divided between two classic river trips: first on the sun kosi river then the karnali. i joined two commercial rafting trips run by ultimate rivers. this year is ultimate's 20th anniversary to be running rafting trips in nepal, and i was fortunate enough to sneak on the celebratory trips.
i also had the unique pleasure of going kayaking with my uncle lincoln, in one of his old stomping grounds no less.
here we are, uncle and nephew, feeling small amongst the high flows on an early season sun kosi river:

photo by maxi

traveling down these rivers with rafts in support to carry your food, beverages, and camping equipment is true luxury. the sun kosi trip took seven days, the karnali ten. you feel like part of a real (to steal my dad's term) floatilla of fun.

photo by mw

spend a beautiful and exciting day on the river, camp each night on the beach, eat a delicious meal, drink by the fire, fall asleep under the stars. i could go on and on. even after being burnt out on raft guiding and safety kayaking all summer, i truly enjoyed these trips.
a wonderfully cool, misty morning while tens of thousands of cubic feet of water go by every second

photo by mw

feeling small again at another sandy beach campsite, sun kosi river:

photo by mw

such enjoyable trips, especially the whitewater.
the author, sneaking in some extra paddling on the tamur kosi, a tributary of the sun kosi

photo by maxi

a rest day for the rafters, an dose of extra excitement for us kayakers

photo by mw

here's maxi on the karnali:

photo by mw

and myself on the karnali, tucking into a "haystack" wave:

photo by maxi

mud huts, thatched roofs, and rice patties:

photo by mw
using the river as your means of travel allows you to see so much of nepal and the beautiful people who carve a life out of this rugged landscape. people who may live many, many miles from the nearest road. people who may only eat one meal (dal bhat) their entire lives. people who despite living entirely without most of the conveniences of modern life are as happy and handsome as any i have ever encountered.

photo by mw


photo by mw


photo by mw


at the end of the sun kosi then karnali river trip, three weeks of multi-day big water under my belt and with my belongings coated completely in sand

photo by mw
i was ready to move on to the second phase of my adventures: pure kayaking pleasure. mmmmmmm....the goods:

photo by maxi
with friends from three different continents, i moved from the big, brown rivers to the crystal creeks under the annapurnas, the promise land, and a more classic view-scape of the highest mountains of the world:

photo by mw

from the modhe kola to the marsayandi, in and out of chisapani and birethanti. i enjoyed the company of new and old paddling friends on rivers and creeks well deserving of the "classic" label.
our first rapid on the modhe khola:

photo by mw

jj enjoying himself on the modhe khola:

photo by mw

mefford on some more modhe:

photo by maxi

more mefford, with sam sutton looking on from below:

photo by maxi

maxi, looking back at some classic scenery:

photo by mw

earning our turns on the marsyandi and nagdi:

photo by maxi

a great way to start the day. our first rapid on the nagdi khola, a tributary to the marsyandi:

photo by maxi

and a great way to end it. with a delicious home cooked meal made of only the freshest naturally organic ingredients with no artificial colors or flavors.
shawn and the author digging in:

photo by maxi

a trip of a lifetime only begins to sum up my experiences in nepal. i left norway heading east already longing for home to the west, challenging me to stay in the moment throughout a longer and farther trip from home.
but my time away was priceless and reuniting with family and friends all the more precious. i enjoy my relationships with family and friends all the more after my extended absence.

thanks again to all you blog fans for staying tuned out there in internet land. be sure to join us again for more adventures from the north american continent. same blog time. same blog channel.